Thierry’s domaine, Roches Neuves, whose vineyards are planted in the Saumur (Blanc) and Saumur-Champigny (Rouge) appellations, has rightfully become one of the greatest examples of high achievement in biodynamic vine growing in France. We put him up there with the greats: Abbatucci in Corsica, Ganevat in the Jura, Ostertag in Alsace. His total dedication to site specific wines produced from Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, his “parcellaires,” has produced some of the most exciting wines in the Loire Valley today.
The majority of the clos is planted with Cabernet Franc. The very small amount of Chenin comes from sixty-year-old vines and in a typical vintage, the total production is just two oval casks – somewhere around 1,200 bottles. The small amount of Clos de l’Echelier Blanc that’s produced is absolutely thrilling. The l’Échelier Blanc is always the most incisively mineral of Roches Neuves’ whites. Many people taste Roches Neuves and reference Corton-Charlemagne.
Tasting Notes
Soaring intensity, serious verve and fine, stony minerality. It always amazes us how the wine can combine such punch with such finessed delicacy with an amazing purity and high-toned floral profile. Deep concentration of the vintage with vibrant lift and mineral stained yellow fruits.
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Clos de l’Echeliers 2017 | This mostly red Saumur Champigny vineyard, surrounded by 300-year-old stone walls, has a dedicated parcel of chalk soil that gives this fragrant, pineapple-flavored white wine an edge of minerality. It is very fresh, textured and with a salty aftertaste. Drink from 2020.